6015 COAT

 

YOU NEED: wool/semiwool fabrics suitable for coats; lining; fusing of 210 cm length and 140 cm width; warmer of 80 cm length and 8 cm width; 7 buttons of 27 mm diameter; 6 buttons of 22 mm diameter; shoulder pads.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

 

CUTTING:

 

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Outer collar – 1 folded piece

6. Stand-up collar – 1 piece

7. Inner collar – 1 folded piece

8. Off-set welt – 1 piece

9. Half belt – 4 pieces

10. Front band – 2 pieces

11. Flap – 2 pieces

12. Sacking – 2 pieces

13. Facing (rectangle of 17.5x2 cm) – 4 pieces

14. Small sacking (rectangle of 19.5x23 cm) – 1 piece

 

Lining

1. Back part+2 cm along middle line (for free-fit pleat);

2. Front part (without front bands);

3. Both sleeves (without slit allowances);

4. Flap, sacking, small sackings – without changes;

Lining hems are 2 cm shorter than fabric one.

 

Fusing: marked segment of lapel, outer/inner collars, flap, stand-ups, hem/sleeve hems, small pocket welt’s half width.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

NB: when stitching details together, press allowances apart as open.

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of marked segment of lapel, outer/inner collars, flap, stand-ups, hem/sleeve hems, small pocket welt’s half width.

 

2. Stitch front darts, cut along bendings and press apart as open.

 

3. Left front part: Bend off-set welt along the center wrong side out, overstitch short edges, turn it right side out and press. Pin downfolded off-set welt on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on off-set welt; pin upfolded fabric sacking on and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side. Topstitch welt’s free edge on the sacking with zig zags. Fold both sackings, adjust them and stitch together along the contour. On right side: stitch welt’s ends on the garment.

 

4. Lay fabric flap on lining one right sides together, stitch along outer edges. Turn the detail right side out, press it and make decorative bastings along edges.

 

5. Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings into front parts: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on lower facings. Lay fabric sacking on upper facing inserting flap folded upward between upper facing and fabric sacking and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and make 1-cm facings. Fold the sacking double and topstitch its upper edge on upper facing’s allowance. Stitch sacking’s side edges together. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles.

 

6. Stitch back pleat and press it toward back middle.

 

7. Stitch middle back seam up to vent mark.

 

8. Fold left back part vent’s allowance into right side and stitch along hem line. Then turn right side out and press.

 

9. Fold right back part’s hem into right side and stitch along vent allowance’s edge, then turn right side out and press.

 

10. Fold the vent leftward and fix vent’s top with diagonal stitch.

 

11. Lay half belts right sides together, stitch long and rounded edges together. Turn details right side out, press them and make decorative bastings along edges.

 

12. Turn the half belt toward middle seam and pin it on back part.

 

13. Stitch side seams stitching half belts.

 

14. Press marked segment at shoulder edges, then stitch shoulder seams.

 

15. Stitch stand-ups to outer/inner collar coinciding marks.

 

16. Stitch inner collar into fabric neckline right sides together coinciding marks on shoulder seams. Stitch outer collar to front bands.

 

17. Lay front bands joint with outer collar on the garment right sides together and stitch along collar edge and front edgings. Turn all right side out, press and make decorative bastings along edges.

 

18. Sew outer collar’s open edge to garment neckline.

 

19. Press sleeve’s upper part together and stitch upper sleeve to elbow part down to slit mark. Press allowances apart and turn the sleeve right side out. Fold slit allowances and hem allowance into right side, stitch the corner diagonally, cut extra fabric at 1 cm from the seam and press allowances apart. Press allowances into wrong side, sew with cross stitches and overlap the slit.

 

20. Ease sleeve cap slightly (narrow close stitches) between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Stitch sleeve seam and press allowances apart. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.

 

21. Cut the warmer into equal parts and sew it to sleeve caps’ wrong sides.

 

22. Press the hem into wrong side and sew with blind stitches.

 

23. Sew shoulder pads.

 

24. Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few cms above garment’s hem. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric’s, leave a segment of 20 cm length into an elbow seam. Lay the lining into fabric garment right sides together, coinciding middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge, side vent facing and along back vent facing’s edge (before you do it, slash horizontally lining allowances at back vent’s hem). Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then stitch segment’s edges together.

 

25. Make buttonholes into half belt, lapels, left front part and top buttonhole into right front part according to marks.

 

26. Sew buttons

 

27. Make buttonholes into sleeves (do not cut the fabric) and fix sleeve slits with buttons.