6020 DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET
YOU NEED: wool/semiwool; lining; fusing of 130 cm length and 140 cm width; welting of 55 cm length and 90 cm width; warmer of 80 cm length and 8 cm width; piping of 70 cm length and 0.5 cm width; 7 buttons of 20 mm diameter; 6 buttons of 14 mm diameter; shoulder pads.
NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Side part – 2 pieces
4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Outer collar – 1 piece
7. Flap – 2 pieces
8. Off-set welt – 1 piece
9. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
10. Front band – 2 pieces
11. Small sacking – 1 piece
12. Sacking (18.5x21 cm rectangle) – 2 pieces
13. Facing (16.5x2 cm rectangle) – 4 pieces
14. Inner collar – 1 piece
15. Back part+2 cm along middle line (for free-fit pleat)
16. Front part (excluding front bands and darts)
17. Both sleeve details without slit facing
18. Side part, flap, sacking and small sacking – without changes
19. Lining hem is 2 cm shorter than fabric one
Welting: front part’s marked segment (between lapel and dashed line).
Fusing: front parts, outer/inner collar, stand-up collar, flap, facings, off-set welt
NB! In you sew the model of checked fabric please take into account how checks coincide on seams.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front parts, outer/inner collars, both stand-up collars, flaps and facings, off-set welt.
2. Do the same for back/side/sleeve hems allowances (diagonally).
3. Cut pocket entrance, stitch darts and press them apart, tack pocket entrance together.
4. Left front part:
Bend off-set welt along the center wrong side out, overstitch short edges, turn it right side out and press. Pin downfolded off-set welt on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on off-set welt; pin upfolded fabric sacking on and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side. Topstitch welt’s free edge on the sacking with zig zags. Fold both sackings, adjust them and stitch together along the contour. On right side: stitch welt’s ends on the garment.
5. Stitch front relieves and press allowances apart.
6. Overstitch flaps with the lining, turn them right side out and press.
7. Both front parts:
Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings into front parts: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on lower facings. Lay fabric sacking on upper facing inserting flap folded upward between upper facing and fabric sacking and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and make 1-cm facings. Fold the sacking double and topstitch its upper edge on upper facing’s allowance. Stitch sacking’s side edges together. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles.
8. Quilt the welting’s wrong side with blind stitches according to marks.
9. Stitch back middle seam.
10. Stitch side/shoulder seams.
11. Press allowances apart.
12. Stitch the piping to back armholes/side part allowances to avoid stretching.
13. Stitch the stand-up collar to outer/inner collars and press allowances apart.
14. Stitch inner collar into neckline and press allowances apart.
15. Stitch front bands to outer collar and press allowances apart.
16. Lay front bands joint with outer collar on the garment right sides together and overstitch front edgings and the collar. Turn all right side out, press and sew outer collar to neckline.
17. Make a stitch along stand-ups joining line.
18. Press sleeve’s upper part together and stitch upper sleeve to elbow part down to slit mark. Press allowances apart and turn the sleeve right side out. Fold slit allowances and hem allowance into right side, stitch the corner diagonally, cut extra fabric at 1 cm from the seam and press allowances apart. Press allowances into wrong side, sew with cross stitches and overlap the slit.
19. Ease sleeve cap slightly (narrow close stitches) between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.
20. Separate the warmer into two pieces and sew to sleeve caps by hand.
21. Press the hem into wrong side and sew it with blind stitches.
22. Do the same for sleeve hems.
23. Sew shoulder pads.
24. Stitch lining’s back middle seam.
25. Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few cms above garment’s hem. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric’s, leave a segment of 20 cm length into an elbow seam. Lay the lining into fabric garment right sides together, coinciding middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge, side vent facing and along back vent facing’s edge (before you do it, slash horizontally lining allowances at back vent’s hem). Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then stitch segment’s edges together.
27. Make buttonholes into right/left front parts and into lapels; sew buttons.
28. Make buttonholes into sleeves (do not cut) and fix slits with buttons.