6021 DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET
YOU NEED: wool/semiwool; lining; welting of 40 cm length and 90 cm width; fusing of 135 cm length and 140 cm width; watmer of 80 cm length and 8 cm width; 11 buttons of 18 mm diameter; shoulder pads.
NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Outer collar – 1 piece
6. Off-set welt – 1 piece
7. Flap – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Inner collar – 2 pieces
10. Facing (15.5x3 cm rectangle) – 4 pieces
11. Sacking (18x21 cm rectangle) – 2 pieces
12. Small sacking – 1 piece
13. Back part+2 cm along middle line (for free-fit pleat)
14. Front part (draw along front bands’ line)
15. Sleeve both details, flap, sacking, small sacking – without changes
16. Lining hems are 2 cm shorter than fabric one
Fusing: front parts, front bands, outer/inner collars, flap, off-set welt, facing, hem allowance.
Welting: upper front part’s marked segment (between lapel and dashed line)
NB! In you sew the model of checked fabric please take into account how checks coincide on seams.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front parts, front bands, outer/inner collars, flaps, off-set welts, facings, hem allowance.
2. Left front part:
Bend off-set welt along the center wrong side out, overstitch short edges, turn it right side out and press. Pin downfolded off-set welt on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on off-set welt; pin upfolded fabric sacking on and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side. Topstitch welt’s free edge on the sacking with zig zags. Fold both sackings, adjust them and stitch together along the contour. On right side: sew the welt with blind stitches and topstitching at 5 mm from edges.
3. Stitch front darts and press towards the center.
4. Overstitch the flap with the lining, turn right side out and press.
5. Both front parts:
Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings into front parts: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on lower facings. Lay fabric sacking on upper facing inserting flap folded upward between upper facing and fabric sacking and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and make 1-cm facings. Fold the sacking double and topstitch its upper edge on upper facing’s allowance. Stitch sacking’s side edges together. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles.
6. Stitch back middle seam. Stitch back relieves.
7 Stitch shoulder seams.
8. Quilt the welting with blind stitches according to marks. Sew the welting to shoulder seams’ allowances.
9. Stitch inner collar along middle ling and press allowances apart.
10. Stitch inner collar into neckline, stitch outer collar to front bands. Press allowances apart.
11. Lay outer collar joint with front bands on the jacket right sides together coinciding edges, and overstitch the collar and front edgings. Turn all right sides out, press and tack collars’ lower edges together.
12. Press sleeve details together on the marked segment. Stitch upper sleeve to lower one.
13. Ease sleeve cap slightly (narrow close stitches) between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.
14. Cut the warmer into two pieces and sew it along sleeve caps.
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16. Sew shoulder pads.
17. Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few cms above garment’s hem. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric’s, leave a segment of 20 cm length into an elbow seam. Lay the lining into fabric garment right sides together, coinciding middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge, side vent facing and along back vent facing’s edge (before you do it, slash horizontally lining allowances at back vent’s hem). Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then stitch segment’s edges together.
18. Make buttonholes into the lapel and front parts.
19. Sew buttons.