6022 RAINCOAT

 

YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoats; lining; fusing of 140 cm length and 140 cm width; satin piping of 330 cm length and 1.5 cm width; 6 buttons of 30 mm diameter; 2 buttons of 15 mm diameter; 1 currach clasp.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Sleeve lapel – 2 pieces

6. Stand-up collar – 2 folded pieces

7. Off-set welt – 2 pieces

8. Sleeve belt – 4 pieces

9. Right waistband – 2 pieces

10. Waistband – 2 pieces

11. Collar – 2 folded pieces

12. Front band – 2 pieces

13. Sacking – 2 pieces

14. Front detail – 2 pieces

15. Side belt loop (20x2 cm rectangle) – 1 piece

16. Belt loop (12x2 cm rectangle) – 1 piece

 

Lining:

17. Back part – 1 folded piece

18. Front part – 2 pieces

19. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

20. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

21. Sacking – 2 pieces

 

Please use to cut off lining:

Back part

Front part without front bands

Sleeve’s both pieces (3 cm shortened)

Sacking, sleeve lapel – without changes

Lining hem is 3 cm shorter than coat’s one.

 

Fusing: front part’s marked segment, both waistbands, back vent’s allowance, off-set welt’s half width, front detail.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front part’s marked segment, both waistbands, back vent’s allowance, off-set welt’s half width, front detail.

 

2. Lay front details (with and without fusing) right sides together, stitch them together along the perimeter excluding short straight edge. Turn the detail right side out, press it and topstitch along edges.

 

3. Lay front detail folded toward front edging on left front part’s right side, stitch it and cut allowances to 5 mm. Press front detail towards armhole and make decorative topstitch at 7 mm.

 

4. Bend off-set welt along the center wrong side out, overstitch short edges, turn it right side out and press. Make decorative stitch at 1 cm from welt’s bending chevronwise to welt’s ends. Pin downfolded off-set welt on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on off-set welt; pin upfolded fabric sacking on and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side. Topstitch welt’s free edge on the sacking with zig zags. Fold both sackings, adjust them and stitch together along the contour. On right side: stitch welt’s ends on the garment. Make decorative stitch along pocket’s lower edge, stitch welt’s short edges with additional 1-cm stitch.

 

5. Stitch middle back seam, press allowances leftward and make 1-cm decorative stitch.

 

6. Turn vent left allowance into right side and stitch along back hem line. Turn right side out and press. Make 1-cm decorative stitch along vent’s left bending.

 

7. Fold right back allowance into right side, stitch along vent’s allowance, turn right side out and press.

 

8. Overlap the vent leftwards and fix it with diagonal stitch at its top.

 

9. Stitch side seams, press allowances backwards and make 5-mm decorative topstitch.

 

10. Fold side belt loop along the center wrong side out, stitch long edges together, turn the detail right side out. Press it, then topstitch decoratively along edges. Cut the detail into equal pieces.

 

11. Fold belt loops’ open edges under, lay loops on side seams and stitch along edges.

 

12. Stitch sleeve’s upper seam, press allowances frontwards and topstitch decoratively at 1 cm.

 

13. Stitch sleeve’s lower seam.

 

14. Stitch sleeves into armholes coinciding control marks, press allowances toward sleeves and make 1-cm decorative stitch.

 

15. Stitch sleeve lapel into ring op to the slit.

 

16. Overstitch sleeve lapel with the lining, turn right side out and make 1-cm topstitch.

 

17. Stitch sleeve lining lapel to sleeve hem’s right side; stitch lapel’s lower edge to the sleeve along the seam made before.

 

18. Make a lapel and fix it on the sleeve and sleeve seam.

 

19. Press sleeve hem into wrong side and sew with blind stitches.

 

20. Trim coat’s hem with the piping: Lay the piping on the cat right sides together coinciding edges, then stitch at the distance of ¼ piping. Round coat’s edge with the piping, fold the rest of piping under (1/4 of piping’s width) and stitch along the bend coinciding with the seam made before.

 

21. Stitch front band to inner front part.

 

22. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabrics’ (without decorative topstitching).

 

23. Trim lining hem with piping in the same way as coat’s.

 

24. Stitch fabric stand-up collar to inner collar coinciding control marks, then press allowances open.

 

25. Stitch outer collar to stand-up collar coinciding control marks.

 

26. Stitch inner collar into coat neckline right sides together coinciding control marks and shoulder seams.

 

27. Stitch outer collar to the lining in the same way.

 

28. Lay the lining joint with outer collar on the garment right sides together, and stitch the collar and front edgings. Press collar/lapels allowances towards inner collar and front part, then make 1-cm fixing stitch.

 

29. Turn the garment right side out and press it.

 

30. On wrong side: stitch inner collar’s lower edge to garment’s neckline.

 

31. Press coat’s hem into wrong side and stitch along the edge.

 

32. Fold fabric/lining vent right allowance’s open edges under, sew them together with blind stitches. Slash vent left allowance’s lining close to vent base and sew on garment allowance with blind stitches.

 

33. Topstitch front edgings decoratively between lapels and the hem.

 

34. Fold lining sleeve hem under and sew it to fabric sleeve hem.

 

35. Sew both waistbands along middle seam. Make the waistband.

 

36. Make belt loop, stitch it into ring, set it into the waistband and fix it close to the clasp.

 

37. Make buttonholes into front detail, vent upper part, left front edging and one upper buttonhole into right front part.

 

38. Sew buttons.