6025 UNIFORM SHIRT

 

YOU NEED: moreen/denim type fabric; fusing of 35 cm length and 140 cm width;10 buttons of 10 mm diameter.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

 

CUTTING:

 

1. Back part – 1 folded piece

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Yoke – 2 pieces

4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Collar – 2 pieces

7. Patch pocket – 2 pieces

8. Flap – 4 pieces

9. Belt loop – 1 piece

10. Inset pocket’s valance – 2 pieces

11. Inset pocket’s off-set welt – 2 pieces

12. Front band – 2 pieces

13. Epaulette – 2 pieces

14. Cuff – 2 pieces

15. Sleeve facing – 2 pieces

 

Lining:

Inset sacking – 2 pieces

 

Fusing: collar, cuffs.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer collar and outer cuffs.

 

2. Make pleats into the pocket as directed, press and make decorative stitches at 3 mm from bendings.

 

3. Press pocket’s upper edge into wrong side, press the edge under and stitch along edge.

 

4. Press pocket’s open edges into wrong side and stitch the pocket on left front part.

 

5. Stitch flaps right sides together along outer edges, turn right side out, press and make 5 mm decorative stitch.

 

6. Tack downturn flap on front part’s right side.

 

7. Stitch the flap to front part, press frontward and make 5 mm decorative stitch.

 

8. Lay the valance’s wrong side on sacking’s right side and stitch along the edge. Back the valance to sacking along open edges.

 

9. Press off-set welt along the center right side out.

 

10. Pin downturned welt on front band. Lay the sacking (side without valance, wrong side down) above and stitch the welt together with the sacking at 1 cm from marking both side. Cut the fabric/sacking between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side. Stitch fabric triangles/welts’ ends to the sacking (wrong side).

 

11. Press the sacking along the center wrong side out, stitch along lower edges and neaten allowances. Make fixing stitch on right side (on wrong side, for experiences sewers) of upper/side edges of pocket entrance stitching the sacking.

 

12. Make pleats into back part, press as directed and tack along edges.

 

13. Lay yokes right sides together, insert upper back part between them and stitch together adjusting edges. Turn right side out, press and make 5 mm decorative stitch.

 

14. Lay front bands on the garment right sides together and overstitch front edgings. Turn details right side out, then press. Tack front’s/front bands’ necklines together.

 

15. Stitch yokes to front parts coinciding marks in the same way as on back part, inserting front parts with front bands between yokes.

 

16. Stitch belt loop along the center wrong side out, stitch long edges, turn right side out, press and make decorative stitches along edges. Cut the detail in two pieces.

 

17. Fold loops’’ open edges into wrong side, lay loops on the yoke and stitch along edges.

 

18. Stitch epaulettes right sides together along perimeter excluding short straight edge. Turn the detail right side out, press it and make decorative stitch along the edge.

 

19. Lay epaulettes turned toward sleeves on right side of the yoke, stitch, then cut allowances to 5 mm. Press epaulettes toward the neckline and make 7 mm decorative stitch.

 

20. Stitch collars right sides together along outer edges. Turn the collar right side out and press it.

 

21. Stitch soft (inner) collar to fabric neckline right sides together coinciding marks with shoulder seams. Press lower edge of reinforced (outer) collar under and stitch to garment neckline along the edge and at 7 mm from the edge.

 

22. Stitch upper/elbow sleeves up to the slit mark, neaten and press allowances upward. Press apart allowances below the slit. Topstitch allowances at 5 mm from the slit.

 

23. Stitch sleeves into armholes coinciding marks, neaten allowances, press toward armholes and make 5 mm decorative stitch.

 

24. Stitch side/sleeve seam with a single lap seam right side together. Press allowances frontward, cut lower allowance’s half width, fold upper edge under and stitch on the garment along the edge with double decorative stitch.

 

25. Make pleats into sleeve hems, press as directed and tack along edges.

 

26. Fold the cuff along the center wrong side out, stitch short edges and turn the detail right side out. Stitch cuff’s reinforces side to sleeve hem right sides together. Press cuff’s open edge inside and stitch to the garment along the previous seam making 5 mm decorative stitch along cuff’s perimeter.

 

27. Press hem allowance into wrong side and turn in shirt hem.

 

28. Make buttonholes into left front edging, flaps and cuffs. Sew buttons.