6026 SHIRT

 

YOU NEED: shirting (cotton); fusing of 80 cm length and 90 cm width; 6 pearl buttons of 10 mm diameter; 8 pearl buttons of 8 mm diameter.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

 

CUTTING:

 

1. Back part – 1 folded piece

2. Left part – 1 piece

3. Sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Yoke – 2 folded pieces

5. Stand-up collar – 2 folded pieces

6. Collar – 2 folded pieces

7. Cuff – 4 pieces

8. Sleeve facing - 2 pieces

9. Right front part – 1 piece

10. Left pocket – 1 piece

 

NB! In you sew the model of checked fabric please take into account how checks coincide on seams.

 

Fusing: cuffs; left closure placket; right front band; collar; stand-up collar.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of left closure placket; right front band; outer collar; inner stand-up collar.

 

2. Press pocket’s upper edge into wrong side, press the edge under and stitch along edge.

 

3. Embroider the emblem.

 

4. Press pocket’s open edges into wrong side and stitch the pocket on left front part.

 

5. Press right front edging allowance into wrong side along solid line, fold the edge under and stitch along the edge.

 

6. Press left closure placket’s allowance into wrong side along outermost solid line, insert bending edge into the pleat and stitch the pleat on the right side. Make 7.5 decorative stitch along font edging and press closure placket.

 

7. Stitch the pleat on back part’s right side, press it and tack along edges.

 

8. Lay yokes right sides together, insert upper back part between them and stitch together adjusting edges. Turn right side out, press and make decorative stitch.

 

9. Do the same to stitch the yoke to front part.

 

10. Pin slit facing’s right side on wrong side of sleeve according to marks and stitch along the edge. Cut the fabric along cut ling and process open edge with hem stitch. Slash allowances at slit base and fold half width of facing into right side. Fold facing’s open edges and stitch on the sleeve along edge.

 

11. Stitch sleeves into armholes coinciding marks, then press allowances towards armholes. Cut armhole allowances to 5 mm, round them with sleeve cap’s allowance, press toward the armhole and stitch to the garment along the edge.

 

12. Stitch side/sleeve seam with a single lap seam right side together. Press allowances backward, cut lower allowance’s half width, fold upper edge under and stitch on the garment along the edge with double decorative stitch.

 

13. Reinforce one stand-up and one collar with the fusing. Stitch both collars right sides together along outer edges. Turn the detail right side out, press and make decorative stitch. Lay both stand-ups right side together, insert the collar between upper edges laying reinforces stand-up on reinforced collar, then stitch; continue stitching along closure ejects. Press stand-up’s open edges into wrong side, insert neckline edge between them and stitch along the edge; continue stitching along stand-up’s upper edge. Make 7 mm decorative stitch along collar edge.

 

14. Make pleats into sleeve hems, press them as directed and tack along edges.

 

15. Lay reinforced cuff on the soft one right sides together, stitch along outer edges and make cuff detail. Turn the detail right side out. Stitch reinforced side to sleeve hem right sides together. Press cuff open edge into wrong side and stitch to the garment along the previous seam making 7 mm decorative stitch along the perimeter. Make 1.5 cm decorative stitch along the seam joining the cuff and sleeve hem.

 

16. Turn in shirt hem.

 

17. Make buttonholes into left front edging/stand-up collar and cuffs. Sew buttons.