You need: silk satin or thick sateen, share fatin (of two tinctures, for example, of lacteous white and cream white); zipper, fusing, metal/plastic bones, ready underskirt (of stiff fatin), lace border of 1.5-2 cm width.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
Seam allowances: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (minimal width is 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
PLEASE KEEP BEAM THREAD DIRECTION.
1. Front skirt – 1 piece
2. Back skirt – 2 pieces
3. Front/back facings – 4 pieces
4. Plastron – 1 piece
5. Border_1, border_2, border_3 – 2 pieces
1. Flounce_1: quantity will be given on the piece. (For example, kd-57. For better cutting you can fold fatin several times.)
2. Flounce_2: quantity will be given on the piece. (For example, kd-59. For better cutting you can fold fatin several times.)
3. Front skirt’s lower frill – 1 piece
4. Back skirt’s lower frill – 2 pieces
5. All bodice details
1. Front/back facings – 4 pieces
2. Plastron – 1 piece
3. Border_1, border_2, border_3 – 2 pieces
Trimming: you need lace border of 1.5-2 cm width to trim (overlap) seams. You need also satin piping to trim bones.
1. All front upper pieces are of 3 layers of fatin (to make them less transparent and stiff). It is better to take sheer and not too stiff fatin.
2. All bodice seams are to be overlapped along inner/outer sides with satin piping; set into this piping metallic/plastic bones which are 2 cm shorter than seam length (to make sewing more comfortable).
3. Stitch satin piping (long pattern lines) on front middle/center back pieces to made them less transparent. Stitch lace border on sides along shaped lines.
4. Overlap all bodice seams additionally with the lace borders.
5. Upper fatin skirt: stitch flounces to skirt upper piece along marking. Gather lower frill a little and stitch it to upper skirt piece’s lower edge.
6. Stitch the flounce_2 (narrower) along lines between the line joining the skirt to the bodice and the sixth line of the skirt. Then stitch on the flounce_1 (wider) only.
7. Cut flounces with seam allowances. Cut a flounce along “cutting” line, lay it flat, then stitch on the skirt along inside diameter, one after another, leaving all square's ends free (see picture).