FABRIC: wool or half-wool fabric.
YOU WILL ALSO NEED: zip and iron-on interfacing.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 ñì for all seams, 3 cm for the skirt hem.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric pieces).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE MATCHING!
1. Fly facing – 1 piece
2. Zip guard – 1 piece
3. Carrier – 1 piece
4. Back panel – 1 piece
5. Front panel – 2 pieces
6. Upper side front – 2 pieces
7. Pocket facing - 2 pieces
8. Pocket – 2 pieces
9. Front waistband – 4 pieces
10. Back waistband – 2 pieces
INTERFACING: front/back under waistband.
1. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the front/back under waistband piece.
2. Stitch the back darts; press the darts to the back centre.
3. With right sides inside, press the carrier piece in half lengthways; stitch 0,5-0,7 cm from the fold; turn right side out and press. Cut carriers according to the pattern.
4. Stitch the pocket piece to the upper side front piece; neaten the seam; press the seam allowances downwards and topstitch to the pocket. With right sides together, overstitch the pocket entrance with the pocket facing; topstitch the pocket opening 1 cm below the fold. Stitch the side front piece to the pocket facing around the inner edges. Neaten this seam. Stitch the pocket to the front at the side/waist edges.
5. Stitch the front/back top waistband side edges; press the seams open. Stitch the waistband to the skirt waist edge, placing the carriers between them.
6. Stitch the fly facing to the right front. Neaten the front and the facing centre edges. Stitch the front centre seam up to the zipper notches.
7. Neaten the skirt side edges; stitch the side seams; pres the seams open.
8. Stitch the zip tape to the slit left edge and to the right fly facing. Press the fly facing to the wrong side of the garment. Tack the fly facing to the garment. Fold the zip guard inside out and overstitch along a short edges; turn it right side out; neaten the zip guard side edges together. Place the zip guard under the left edge of the zip and tack. Topstitch on the on the right side of the garment through the garment, zip tape and the zip guard.
9. Cut the waistband right front end according to the front centre edge plus 1 cm for the seam allowance. Stitch the under waistband side edges; press the seams open. Neaten the under waistband inner edge. With right sides together and the under waistband uppermost, stitch along the upper edge. Topstitch the seam allowances to the under waistband. Fold the waistband front ends under; topstitch the waistband right end and the zipper opening right edge from the waistband upper edge to the end of the zip through the fly facing according to the design. Topstitch the waistband left end. Topstitch the carrier upper edges to the waistband.
10. Neaten the garment hem; press the hem under and topstitch.