YOU NEED: denim, fusing, zipper, 1 button, 4 eyelets.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for hem. 2 cm for pocket upper edge and pocket side.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Front insert – 2 pieces
2. Patch pocket – 2 pieces
3. Flap – 4 pieces
4. Pocket side – 2 pieces
5. Front panel – 2 pieces
6. Back panel – 2 pieces
7. Small sacking – 2 pieces
8. Large sacking – 2 pieces
9. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
10. Button catch – 1 piece
11. Waistband – 1 piece
Fusing: waistband; button catch; pocket entrance stripe.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband and button catch.
2. Sew back darts. Press darts towards back center.
3. Sew insert to front panel. Neaten the seam and make decorative stitch at 0.5 from joining seam.
4. Mark off-set welt place. Press it along the center right side together. Overstitch off-ser welt corners, slash corner allowances and turn off-set welt right side out. Press ready off-set welt.
5. Reinforce slit pocket place into front panel. Mark line of sewing off-set welt to garment on off-set welt, measuring the width. Mark pocket place on front panel. Lay off-set welt right side on right side of one part of pocket lining, with ready edge down, coinciding edges and with lining edges equally out of off-set welt boards. Lay off-set welt on font part and coincide marked lines. Sew off-set welt to the garment (off-set welt should be between front panel and pocket lining). Fold joining seam of off-set welt and lining towards off-set welt. Lay lining second part on front part, right sides together, side-to-side, to seam joining off-set welt, tack sew at 0.8-1 cm from seam joining off-set welt. Check sewing of off-set welt and pocket lining from wrong side (stitches must be parallel). Remove tacking. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal cuts at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends.
Turn off-set welt and lining wrong side out through this slit. Fix pocket corners with reverse double stitch n wrong side along corner bases. Sew pocket lining and neaten it. Sew off-set welt to front part and press it. Topstitch off-set welt. Remove tacking.
6. Neaten side edges of front/back panels. Sew side seams of back panel and press them apart.
7. Mark patch pocket place. Neaten pocket side outer edge and press it. Sew side part to pocket and neaten joining seam. Neaten upper/lower pocket edges. Press upper/lower edges to wrong side. Topstitch pocket upper edge at 1/5 cm from edge. Tack patch pocket and topstitch side part at 0.2 cm from edge, stopping at 2-2.5 cm from end. Topstitch pocket lower edge and make 2-2.5 fix stitches at pocket lower corners.
8. Lay flaps right sides together and overstitch them. Slash allowances of flap corners and turn it right side out. Press ready flap. Neaten flap upper edge. Sew the flap to the garment, then fold it out and topstitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam.
9. Sew back middle seam. Neaten the seam and pres it, make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from middle seam.
10. Neaten front middle edge. Sew font middle seam between slit notch ad closure notch. Press middle seam and make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from middle seam.
11. Press closure one-piece facings to wrong side. Sew the zipper under closure left allowance along edge. Sew zipper free braid to right edge to one-piece facing. Fold button catch along the center and overstitch lower short edge. Topstitch closure one-piece facing button catch on skirt left edge. Topstitch lit right edge catching facing.
12. Make eyelets in the waistband. Press the waistband along the center right side out. Neaten waistband lower edge. Sew waistband to the garment. Overstitch waistband ends. Slash extra fabric and turn ends right side out. Topstitch ready end along seam joining waistband.
13. Neaten the hem. Press the hem to wrong side and topstitch. Pull the cord into the waistband. Male a buttonhole into waistband right end, sew a button on left.