5492 ANORAK
YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoat; knitwear,
fusing, separable zipper, 5 buttons, lining, z zipper for pocket.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Inner collar – 1 piece
2. Outer collar – 1 piece
3. Cuff – 2 pieces
4. Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Waistband stripe – 2 pieces
8. Pocket – 2 pieces
9. Pocket side part – 2 pieces
10. Front pocket flap – 4 pieces
11. Bust pocket flap – 2 pieces
12. Bust pocket – 1 piece
13. Front band – 2 pieces
14. Left front part – 1 pieces
15. Right front part – 1 piece
16. Front yoke – 2 pieces
17. Back part – 2 pieces
Knitwear:
5. Back waistband – 2 pieces
6. Front waistband – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Upper
pocket small sacking – 1 piece
2. Upper
pocket large sacking – 1 piece
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Back part – 2 pieces
5. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, inner collar, reinforcement stripe, waistband stripe.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, inner collar, reinforcement stripe, waistband stripe.
2. Lay
outer collar on inner one and overstitch along outer contour. Slash collar’s
corner and turn them out. Press the collar.
3. Cut
fabric stripe for a loop. Fold the stripe along the center. Right side out, and
coincide edges. Fold edges under and stitch at 0.1 cm from upper folded edge.
Fold the stripe in twice making triangle. Fix the triangle along the base.
Topstitch the loop to bust pocket flap’s lower edge.
4. Fold
bust pocket flap details right sides together and overstitch along outer
contour. Turn the flap right side out through upper open edge. Make decorative
stitch at 0.2 cm of flap edge. Mark bust pocket place on upper front part.
Neaten patch pocket outer contour. Press patch pocket upper edge and topstitch
at 0.5 cm from upper edge. Press pocket edges according to pattern. Mark pocket
place on front part and topstitch it fixing pocket corners. Sew the yoke to
right front part inserting the flap. Neaten joining seam, press it and
topstitch at 0.5 cm.
5. Mark
front pocket place at front parts. Process it by analogy to bust pocket flap.
Neaten front pocket side edge. Sew front pocket facing to pocket side/lower
edges and neaten them. Neaten pocket upper edge, fold under and topstitch it.
Lay the pocket on tacking, fold facing edge under and topstitch. Lay the flap
to tacking and topstitch. Turn
the flap right side out and topstitch at 0.5 cm.
6. Mark
upper pocket place on left front part. Reinforce pocket entrance with
reinforcement stripe. Correct pocket place and pocket entrance line. Cut pocket
entrance. Make diagonal cuts at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn pocket
allowance wrong side out through this hole. Correct pocket ends on wrong side.
Lay the zipper under pocket entrance with its teeth visible. Stitch the zipper
in and sew pocket lining to zipper allowance. Sew pocket lining and neaten it.
7. Sew the
yoke to left front part. Neaten joining seam and press it. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm.
8. Sew
waistband stripe to front waistband. Press the seam and topstitch it. Sew the waistband to front parts.
9. Sew
back middle edge and pres it apart. Sew back waistband to back part.
10. Lay
front parts right sides together coinciding yokes, and measure edging lengths.
Sew the zipper to edging. Fold edgings under at closure segment and press them.
11. Lay
front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging line
(on front part side). Turn edgings right side out and press it.
12. Sew shoulder/side
edges. Press shoulder/side seams apart.
13. Sew inner collar into neckline.
14. Sew sleeve edge and press it apart. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches.
15. Sew
lining details and sew sleeves in. Press lining allowance. Sew lining to outer
collar and to front band’ inner edges, stop stitching at 1 cm before edge ends.
Press collar joining seam allowances apart and fix close to seams.
16. Sew the waistband to front band lower edge.
Overstitch waistband lower corners. Slash corners, turn right side out and
press.
17. Sew cuff side edges together. Fold the
cuff along the center, right side out.
18. Sew cuffs to sleeve hems and neaten cuff upper
edge together with sleeve and lining.
19. Make decorative stitch along the zipper at 0.5 cm
distance. Mark buttonholes into front pocket flap and neaten them. Sew buttons correspondingly.