5492 ANORAK

 

YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoat; knitwear, fusing, separable zipper, 5 buttons, lining, z zipper for pocket.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Inner collar 1 piece

2. Outer collar 1 piece

3. Cuff 2 pieces

4. Sleeve 2 pieces

7. Waistband stripe 2 pieces

8. Pocket 2 pieces

9. Pocket side part 2 pieces

10. Front pocket flap 4 pieces

11. Bust pocket flap 2 pieces

12. Bust pocket 1 piece

13. Front band 2 pieces

14. Left front part 1 pieces

15. Right front part 1 piece

16. Front yoke 2 pieces

17. Back part 2 pieces

Knitwear:

5. Back waistband 2 pieces

6. Front waistband 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Upper pocket small sacking 1 piece

2. Upper pocket large sacking 1 piece

3. Front part 2 pieces

4. Back part 2 pieces

5. Sleeve 2 pieces

Fusing: front band, inner collar, reinforcement stripe, waistband stripe.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, inner collar, reinforcement stripe, waistband stripe.

 

2. Lay outer collar on inner one and overstitch along outer contour. Slash collar抯 corner and turn them out. Press the collar.

 

3. Cut fabric stripe for a loop. Fold the stripe along the center. Right side out, and coincide edges. Fold edges under and stitch at 0.1 cm from upper folded edge. Fold the stripe in twice making triangle. Fix the triangle along the base. Topstitch the loop to bust pocket flap抯 lower edge.

 

4. Fold bust pocket flap details right sides together and overstitch along outer contour. Turn the flap right side out through upper open edge. Make decorative stitch at 0.2 cm of flap edge. Mark bust pocket place on upper front part. Neaten patch pocket outer contour. Press patch pocket upper edge and topstitch at 0.5 cm from upper edge. Press pocket edges according to pattern. Mark pocket place on front part and topstitch it fixing pocket corners. Sew the yoke to right front part inserting the flap. Neaten joining seam, press it and topstitch at 0.5 cm.

 

5. Mark front pocket place at front parts. Process it by analogy to bust pocket flap. Neaten front pocket side edge. Sew front pocket facing to pocket side/lower edges and neaten them. Neaten pocket upper edge, fold under and topstitch it. Lay the pocket on tacking, fold facing edge under and topstitch. Lay the flap to tacking and topstitch. Turn the flap right side out and topstitch at 0.5 cm.

 

6. Mark upper pocket place on left front part. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Correct pocket place and pocket entrance line. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal cuts at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn pocket allowance wrong side out through this hole. Correct pocket ends on wrong side. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance with its teeth visible. Stitch the zipper in and sew pocket lining to zipper allowance. Sew pocket lining and neaten it.

 

7. Sew the yoke to left front part. Neaten joining seam and press it. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm.

 

8. Sew waistband stripe to front waistband. Press the seam and topstitch it. Sew the waistband to front parts.

 

9. Sew back middle edge and pres it apart. Sew back waistband to back part.

 

10. Lay front parts right sides together coinciding yokes, and measure edging lengths. Sew the zipper to edging. Fold edgings under at closure segment and press them.

 

11. Lay front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging line (on front part side). Turn edgings right side out and press it.

 

12. Sew shoulder/side edges. Press shoulder/side seams apart.

 

13. Sew inner collar into neckline.

 

14. Sew sleeve edge and press it apart. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches.

 

15. Sew lining details and sew sleeves in. Press lining allowance. Sew lining to outer collar and to front band inner edges, stop stitching at 1 cm before edge ends. Press collar joining seam allowances apart and fix close to seams.

 

16. Sew the waistband to front band lower edge. Overstitch waistband lower corners. Slash corners, turn right side out and press.

 

17. Sew cuff side edges together. Fold the cuff along the center, right side out.

 

18. Sew cuffs to sleeve hems and neaten cuff upper edge together with sleeve and lining.

 

19. Make decorative stitch along the zipper at 0.5 cm distance. Mark buttonholes into front pocket flap and neaten them. Sew buttons correspondingly.