YOU NEED: fabric suitable for dress (natural or mixed), fusing, lining, 6 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Middle back part – 2 pieces
2. Side part – 2 pieces
3. Inner collar – 1 piece
4. Outer collar – 1 piece
5. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
6. Flap – 4 pieces
7. Front band – 2 pieces
8. Front part – 2 pieces
9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
1. Large sacking – 2 pieces
2. Small sacking – 2 pieces
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Middle back part – 2 pieces
5. Side part – 2 pieces
Fusing: front band, inner collar, vent, under-flap, reinforcement stripe.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, inner collar, vent, under-flap, reinforcement stripe.
2. Lay collar details together and overstitch them along the contour. Turn collar corners right side out. Lay flap details right side together and overstitch them along the contour. Cut flap corners’ allowance and turn the flap right side out. Press the flap and the collar.
3. Stitch back darts and pres them towards back center. Stitch front darts. Cut pocket entrance. Cut dart extra allowance apart. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Press darts apart.
4. Stitch front relieve seam. Cut facings of side slip picket. Press facings along the center wrong sides together. Mark auxiliary line on pocket facing (parallel to facings bend for facing’s stitching). Mark auxiliary line on the flap for flap’s stitching (parallel to flap upper edge) measuring flap’s width along its length. Mark auxiliary lines (parallel to pocket entrance) for stitching of flap and pocket facings. Stitch the sacking to flap. Stitch facings to front part. Stop stitching at parallel lines of pocket marking. Check if welt and pocket lining are stitched correctly (stitches on wrong side must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn facings wrong side out through this hole; make facings’ pressed ends lay-to-lay. Fix pocket ends with double reverse stitches on wrong side along corners’ base. Stitch the sacking to flap. Insert the flap into pocket and stitch it to pocket upper facing. Stitch lower sacking along at he seam joining lower facing. Stitch the sacking.
5. Stitch center back part’s middle edge downwards the vent. Press lower vent’s edge at 1 cm. Press back middle seam apart, press the vent. Topstitch back middle seam diagonally at vent’s top according to marks, catching vent allowance.
6. Stitch shoulder edges and press them apart.
7. Stitch elbow seams and press them apart. Stitch sleeve front seams and press them apart. Press sleeve hems under.
8. Pin front band on front part right sides together and overstitch them along edging (at front part side up to the notch determining edge of collar stitching in). Stitch front bands’ lower edges to center front part along marked hem line. Cut edging upper/lower corners. Topstitch edging allowance as follows: topstitch it on front band at closure segment and on front edging at lapel segments (topstitching goes at 0.2 cm from the seam). Turn edgings right side our and press it. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front band and press them apart.
9. Stitch inner collar into garment neckline. Stitch outer collar to back neckline facing and front band. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
10. Stitch lining details leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam, stitch sleeves in. Press lining seams. Stitch lining to front bands’ inner edges and back neckline facing. Press collar joining seams’ allowances apart and fix close to seams.
11. Fold lining sleeves under and stitch to sleeve hems. Fold extra lining download and press it. Turn the garment right side out. Pin lining side seams to garment side seams and cut them neatly along vent edges, displacing 1 cm towards middle seam. Make diagonal notches of 1 cm length towards both sides1 cm before the vent. Fold slits under and pin them to vent edges. Put a hand between the garment and the lining, take pinned edges and pull them out. Stitch edges together; fold the lining down. Arrange vents’ edges. Fold corner of lining under (at vent top) and sew it to vent allowance.
12. Make buttonholes, sew buttons.