5610 ZIP-UP JACKET

 

YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool, fusing, separating zip (see zip length on front parts pattern), lining, shoulder pads.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Center back part 2 pieces

2. Side back part 2 pieces

3. Front part 2 pieces

4. Side front part 2 pieces

5. Back neckline facing 1 piece

6. Front band 2 pieces

7. Upper sleeve 2 pieces

8. Lower sleeve 2 pieces

9. Outer collar 1 piece

10. Inner collar 1 piece

11. Off-set welt 2 pieces

 

Lining:

1. Center back part 2 pieces

2. Side back part 2 pieces

3. Front part 2 pieces (excluding front band width)

4. Side front part 2 pieces

5. Upper sleeve 2 pieces

6. Lower sleeve 2 pieces

7. Pocket 4 pieces

 

Fusing: front band, back neckline facing, outer collar, off-set welt.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, back neckline facing, outer collar, off-set welt.

 

2. Fold the welt along the center wrong side out, then overstitch ends. Cut allowances in corners and turn the detail right side out. Press off-set welt. Stitch pocket lining to the welt.

 

3. Neaten front relieves at pocket entrance segment. Lay the sacking on side front parts right side. Lay the sacking with off-set welt on center front part, right sides together, according to notches. Stitch the sacking to pocket entrance allowance. Fold the sacking sidewise and topstitch the allowance at 0.2 cm from the seam.

 

4. Stitch front relieves up to the notch. Stitch the sacking. Press relieve allowances toward center and press the sacking. Neaten the sacking. Topstitch off-set welts short edges on side front part.

 

5. Stitch back middle seam and press it apart. Stitch back relieves and press them apart.

 

6. Lay front parts right sides together, make edges equal measuring front edgings length. Stitch the zipper to front edgings. Press front edging under at zipper segment.

 

7. Lay collars together and overstitch along the contour. Slash corners and turn them right side out. Press the collar.

 

8. Pin front band to front part right sides together and overstitch along front edgings. (Overstitching goes upwards on front parts side.) Stitch front bands hems to center front part along hem allowance line. Cut front edgings lower corners seams. Turn front edgings right side out and press seams.

 

9. Stitch side/shoulder seams and press them apart.

 

10. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front bands and neaten them. Overstitch back/front neckline. Fold facing into wrong side, press seams.

 

11. Stitch elbow seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hems under. Stitch sleeve front seam and press it apart.

 

12. Stitch sleeve into armholes according to notches. Stitch shoulder pads in.

 

13. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeves in leaving a hole into sleeves front right seam.

 

14. Stitch the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Fix allowances of collar/facing neckline together.

 

15. Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out though the hole in the sleeve. Stitch holes edges together.

 

16. Make decorative stitch along the zipper at 0.5 cm distance.