5723 DOUBLE-SIDED MANTLE

 

You need: natural/mixed fabric suitable for costumes, natural/faux leather; fusing, 4 buttons.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1.5 cm for all seams.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

 

CUTTING:

 

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Collar – 1 piece

 

Leather:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Collar – 1 piece

 

Fusing: collar and fabric front parts.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of collar and fabric front parts.

 

2. Lay collars right sides together and overstitch along ends and collar fall; begin/finish stitch at marked line of collar stitching. Cut seam allowances in corners, turn the collar right side out, then press.

 

3. Processing leather pieces. Stitch back middle seam. Lay seam allowances apart, then topstitch. Stitch back sleeve to back part. Lay seam allowances apart, then topstitch. Stitch front sleeve to front part. Lay seam allowances apart, then topstitch. Stitch shoulder edges. Lay seam allowances apart, then topstitch.

 

4. Processing fabric pieces. Press middle back seam. Press seam allowances apart. Stitch back sleeve to back part. Press seam allowances apart. Stitch front sleeve to front part. Press seam allowances apart. Stitch shoulder edges. Press seam allowances apart.

 

5. Lay mantles right sides together, then overstitch front edging and lapel up to the mark of collar stitching. Slash rounded allowances, cut corners.

 

6. Insert the collar between mantles. Stitch fabric collar into neckline of leather mantle, stitch leather collar into neckline of fabric mantle. Slash rounded allowances, then press the seam apart.

 

7. Overstitch the hem excluding a hole to turn the garment right side out. Turn the mantle right side out, than press. Make a stitch precisely along the seam joining the collar and the neckline.

 

8. Make double decorative stitch along front edging/lapel/hem/collar ends and collar fall at 0.2 cm and 1 cm from the edge stitching technological hole at the same time.

 

9. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons to left front part.