You need: soft wool; fusing, lining, 5 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams. 1.5 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Front band – 2 pieces
5. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
1. Hidden fastening lining – 2 pieces
Fusing: front bands, back neckline facing, hidden fastening lining.
1. Apple the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, one of hidden fastening lining.
2. Cut one-piece stripe from left front band and left sleeve as marked.
3. Stitch the sleeve to back part. Press the seam toward the sleeve, neaten and topstitch it.
4. Stitch middle back part. Press the seam leftwards, neaten and topstitch it.
5. Stitch sleeves to front part. Press seams toward sleeves, neaten and topstitch it.
6. Neaten the hem.
7. Mark fastening slit with three lines on right front band’s right side: the first line is parallel to front edging, it goes at 1.5 cm from front edging as ready; the second and the third lines limit fastening length. Lay strengthened facing on front band right sides together setting it opposite to front edging, coinciding facings edge and marked line. Make stitching at 0.5 cm from marked line along fastening up to lines limiting fastening length. Lay another facing line-on-line to the line joining the first facing, then make stitching at 0.5 cm distance. Control at wrong side if facings are correctly stitched: stitches must be parallel. Cut a hole. Make diagonal slashes at 1-1.5 cm from fastening slit end. Turn facings into wrong side through this hole making a frame of doubled facing; frame is equal to width between stitches. Make fixing stitch along the seam joining the facing. Press another facing toward front band’s inner edge, then make fixing stitch at 0.1 cm from the seam joining the facing. Make buttonholes into front band with strengthened facing. Fix fastening ends on wring side with double reverse stitch along corner base. Stitch facings’ edges. Set fixings between each pair of buttonholes; fixing’s length is equal to frame width. Press front band.
8. Stitch shoulder edges of front bands and back neckline facing. Neaten inner edge. Lay front band on front part right sides together, then overstitch front edging, neckline and hem. Cut upper/lower corner seams of front edging. Turn front edgings into right side and press them. Make decorative stitch along left front edging neckline and one-piece stripe.
9. Press the hem into wrong side, then topstitch. Make decorative stitch along right front part’s right side as marked, stitching goes down the hem.
10. Make a buttonhole into one-piece stripe. Sew buttons as marked.