YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; zipper; 4 buttons; 2 hooks; sheer fusing.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 4 cm for the hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Center back skirt – 1 piece
2. Side back skirt – 2 pieces
3. Lower center back skirt – 1 piece
4. Lower side back skirt – 2 pieces
5. Back yoke – 2 pieces
6. Center front skirt – 1 piece
7. Side front skirt – 2 pieces
8. Lower front skirt – 2 pieces
9. Sacking – 2 pieces
10. Front yoke – 2 pieces
11. Inner yoke – 2 pieces
12. Button fly – 1 piece
13. Belt loop – 1 piece
Fusing: back yoke, front yoke, inner yoke, button fly.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of back yoke, front yoke, inner yoke, button fly, one-piece closure allowance on front skirt.
2. Cut belt loop according to size. Fold the derail along the center wrong side out, adjust edges and overstitch along one long/one short edges. Turn the detail right side out, place the seam on folding, then press. Make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm distance. Make a loop on belt loop’s end.
3. Lay the sacking on center front skirt and overstitch pocket entrance. Fold the sacking into wrong side and make double decorative stitch along pocket entrance at 0.1 cm and 0.7 mc from the edge. Lay center skirt on side front skirt as marked. Stitch the sacking and neaten it. Fix the pocket along side/upper edges.
4. Stitch front yoke to front skirt. Press seam allowances toward the yoke and make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam; stop stitching at 3-4 cm before side edge.
5. Stitch lower front skirt to center skirt. Press the seam toward center part and neaten it.
6. Stitch side back skirt to center skirt. Press the seam toward center skirt and neaten it. Make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
7. Stitch the yoke to back skirt. Press seam allowances toward the yoke.
8. Neaten vent’s allowance at side lower back skirt, press it 1 cm into wrong side. Neaten vent’s allowance at center lower back skirt. Press the vent into wrong side, lay it on side lower part and fix along upper edge.
9. Stitch lower detail to back skirt, press seam allowance upward, then neaten.
10. Cut closure one-piece allowance (left front skirt) leaving 2 cm. Neaten front skirts’ middle edges. Stitch front skirt’s middle edge between closure mark and the hem, slash seam allowance close to the mark. Press allowances into right side, neaten them and make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
11. Stitch skirt side edges, press them apart, then neaten. Make decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam joining yokes/lower pieces and back/front skirts.
12. Press closure one-piece allowance (right skirt) into wrong side at center front line, press closure one-piece allowances (left skirt) at 1 cm from the edge. Neaten button fly’s open edges and press it along the center with its right side up. Stitch the zipper under allowances along left edge with zipper teeth close to the fold; unfold button fly’s marked fold lays so that neaten edge overlap zipper braid. Sew hooks to one-piece allowance of right skirt. Pin slit’s edges together coinciding front center lines. Stitch zipper free braid to right facings; do not catch front skirt. Sew loops on button fly according to hooks.
13. Stitch back/inner yokes’ side edges and press them apart. Neaten outer edge. Lay the facing on skirt upper edge right sides together. Fold the button fly/closure one-piece allowance into right side and stitch facing’s short edges to them. Press allowances toward the facing. Overstitch upper edge with button fly’s upper corners inserting belt loops as marked. Cut corner allowances, turn the facing right side out and press it. Stitch button fly’s inner side’s long allowance on joining seam. Make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from closure’s right edge. Topstitch long edge of one-piece closure along joining seam; do not catch the button fly. Stop stitching 2-2.5 cm before middle seam. Then fold the button fly to its place and continue stitching up to the seam. Make decorative double stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from upper edge. Topstitch facing’s neatened edge along the joining seam. Fold belt loops toward the skirt, sew buttons according to buttonholes.
14. neaten skirt hem. Fold lower allowance on side lower back skirt into right side and overstitch vent’s corner. Turn the vent right side out and make decorative stitch at 0.1 cm from the fold. Coincide ready hem on vent allowance of center lower back skirt to vent folding. Mark this line (450). Cut extra fabric leaving an allowance of 0.5 cm width parallel to marked line. Stitch the corner along marked line, press the seam apart, turn it right side out and press. Make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from vent edge. Fix hem allowance with sheer fusing or sew with blind stitches.