5762 BLOUSE WITH RAY DARTS
YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric (cotton, viscose, polyether); fusing; 9 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Collar – 2 pieces
5. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
6. Cuff – 2 pieces
7. Sleeve placket – 2 pieces
1. Collar – 1 piece
2. Stand-up collar – 1 piece
3. Front placket – 2 pieces
4. Cuff – 2 pieces
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of one-piece placket, cuffs, outer collar and inner stand-up collar.
2. Lay collars right sides together and overstitch along ends/collar fall. Cut seams. Turn the collar right side out and press it. Lay stand-ups right sides together, insert ready collar, adjust notches and stitch all overstitching stand-ups’ ends. Begin and finish stitching at the line joining the stand-up. Turn ready collar right side out and press it.
3. Stitch front darts. Press waist darts toward front center, press upper darts sidewise. Stitch back darts. Press darts toward middle seam. Stitch middle back seam. Neaten the seam and press it.
4. Stitch shoulder/side seams. Neaten seams and press them backward.
Fold plackets twice into wrong side and make decorative stitch along plackets’ inner edges.
5. Stitch outer stand-up with the collar into the neckline, fold inner stand-up’s open edge and topstitch it along the seam joining outer stand-up. Make decorative stitch along the stand-up and the collar.
6. Cut a sleeve as marked cutting a corner at slit’s top. Fold twice a segment between the slit and marked line (1.7 cm long) into wrong side at 0.5 cm, then topstitch it. Fold the placket along the center wrong side out and overstitch the corner to cross mark. Cut seam allowances close to the stitch, slash allowances at stitch end. Turn the placket right side out, press it and stitch at 0.1 cm along the folding between lower edge and cross mark. Lay the placket on the sleeve right sides together and stitch its inner side along marked line. Slash the sleeve at stitch end crosswise between the slit and joining line. Turn the placket into right side, fold open edge under and stitch it. Coincide the placket and a line on the sleeve and topstitch upper corners along the contour/crosswise mark.
7. Stitch sleeve hems and neaten them. Stitch sleeves easing them at sleeve caps.
8. Fold cuffs along the center and overstitch short edges/segment up to the notch. Slash seam allowance close to the notch. Turn the cuffs right side out and press them. Stitch outer cuff to the sleeve. Fold inner cuff under and topstitch it along joining seam. Make buttonholes into cuffs, sew buttons.
9. Neaten the hem, press it into wrong side, then topstitch.
10. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons to the left one.