YOU NEED: double-sided natural/mixed fabric; fusing; 4 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for garment/sleeve hems and for pocket’s upper edge.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Back part – 1 piece
2. Front part – 1 piece
3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Collar – 2 pieces
5. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
6. Placket – 1 piece
7. Flap – 4 pieces
8. Pocket – 2 pieces
9. Sleeve detail – 2 pieces
Fusing: placket, outer collar, outer stand-up collar, 2 flaps.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of placket, outer collar, outer stand-up collar, 2 flaps.
2. Stitch front darts and press them upward.
3. Make box pleat in the pocket. Press pocket upper edge into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch. Press side/lower edges into wrong side. Stitch pockets on front side as marked.
4. Lay flaps right sides together and overstitch them. Cut corner allowances and turn details right side out. Press seams, make decorative stitch at 0.1-0.6 cm from edges. Neaten free edge, make buttonholes. Stitch flaps to front parts, fold them down and topstitch. Sew buttons to pockets according to buttonholes.
5. Neaten placket’s outer edges. Lay the placket on front part right sides together and overstitch front neckline. Cut seam allowances, turn the placket into wrong side and press it. Topstitch the placket on front part as marked.
6. Lay collars right sides together and overstitch along ends/collar fall. Cut seams. Turn the collar right side out and press it. Lay stand-ups right sides together, insert ready collar, adjust notches and stitch all overstitching stand-ups’ ends. Begin and finish stitching at the line joining the stand-up. Turn ready collar right side out and press it.
7. Stitch shoulder edges. Press seams backward and neaten them.
8. Stitch inner stand-up with the collar into the neckline, fold outer stand-up’s open edge and topstitch it along the seam joining outer stand-up. Make decorative stitch along the stand-up and the collar.
9. Fold sleeve detail wrong side out and overstitch long/ short edges. Cut corner allowances, turn the detail right side out and press it. Make a buttonhole. Stitch the sleeve detail to sleeve front side as marked. Sew a button on right side of this place.
10. Stitch sleeves into armholes. Neaten seam allowances. Stitch sleeve edges and side edges with one seam. Press allowances backward and neaten them.
11. Press blouse/sleeve hems into wrong side, fold them under and topstitch.
12. Make buttonholes into front part as marked. Cut a coulisse at 3.5 cm width (see the pattern for length). Press coulisse edges at 1 cm into wrong side, lay it on front part wrong sides together and topstitch as marked.
13. Make fabric cord and pull it into the coulisse.