5770 BLOUSE WITH SHAPED NECKLINE
YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; 12 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for the hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Back part – 1 piece
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Back facing – 2 pieces
5. Front facing – 4 pieces
6. Cuff – 2 pieces
Fusing: one-piece front plackets, cuffs, 1 front/2 back facings.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of one-piece front placket, cuffs, 1 front/2 back facings.
2. Stitch back waist darts/upper front darts. Press waist darts toward the center, press upper darts upward.
3. Press one-piece front placket’s long edge into wrong side. Fold one-piece placket along front edgings line into right side and overstitch upper/lower corners. Slash neckline allowance close to the mark. Neaten neckline edge between the mark and front edging. Turn the placket into wrong side, press it and topstitch at 0.1 cm from inner folded edge.
4. Press neatened neckline into wrong side and topstitch at 0.1 cm from the edge.
5. Stitch sleeve pin-tucks as marked. Stitch sleeve to back parts, press allowances into wrong side and neaten them. Stitch sleeves to front parts, press allowances into wrong side and neaten them. Stitch sleeve/side edges with one seam. Press seam allowances under and neaten them.
6. Stitch front facings to the back one. Lay facings right sides together and overstitch along the hem/ends/upper edge between marks. Slash rounded allowances, cut them in corners. Turn the facing into right side and press it.
7. Stitch outer facing to blouse upper edge, fold inner facing’s open edge and topstitch along joining seam. Make decorative stitch at 0.1 cm from lower edge/ends/facing’s upper edge.
8. Fold cuffs wrong side out and overstitch side edges/closure allowance; cut corner allowances and turn details right side out. Press cuffs.
9. Cut a piping of 18*3 cm to trim sleeve slit. Mark closure line on the sleeve and cut along this line. Lay the sleeve flat along slit line and process the slit with piping seam with blind edge. Piping seam’s width is 0.5-0.7 cm. Seam width along the slit is 0.5-0.7 cm and narrows to 0.2 cm at slit top. Make a seam with loose stitches along sleeve hems. Pull sleeve hems to cuffs’ length.
10. Stitch outer cuff to sleeve hem. Fold inner cuff’s allowance under and topstitch along joining seam.
11. Press blouse hem into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch.
12. Make buttonholes into front part/cuffs, them sew buttons.