6014 COAT

 

YOU NEED: wool/semiwool fabrics suitable for coats; lining; the fusing of 120 cm length and 140 cm width; 3 buttons of 25 mm diameter; 2 buttons of 15 mm diameter.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

 

CUTTING:

 

1. Sleeve stripe – 2 pieces

2. Back part – 2 pieces

3. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Front band – 2 pieces

6. Flap – 2 pieces

7. Pocket – 2 pieces

8. Front part – 2 pieces

9. Inner collar – 1 piece

10. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces

11.Outer collar – 1 piece

 

Lining:

1. Back part+2 cm along middle line (for free-fit pleat);

2. Front part excluding front bands;

3. Pocket is 3 cm shorter along upper edge;

4. Both sleeves, flap, sleeve strap – without changes;

Lining hems are 2 cm shorter than fabric one.

 

Fusing: front part, inner collar, stand-up collar, pocket, flap, hem allowance.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front part, inner collar, stand-up collar, pocket, flap, hem allowance.

 

2. Stitch the lining to pocket upper edge, turn right side out, adjust edges and make 1.5 cm stitch along upper edge.

 

3. Press pocket edges into wrong side and sew them on front parts with blind stitches. Make 1.5 cm stitch.

 

4. Overstitch the flap with lining, turn right side out and make 1.5 cm stitch.

 

5. Stitch upfolded flap to front part, fold it down and make 1.5 cm stitch.

 

6. Stitch back part along middle line up to the vent. Press allowances leftward and make 1.5 cm stitch on right side.

 

7. Fold left back part vent’s allowance into right side and stitch along hem line. Then turn right side out and make 1.5-cm stitch.

 

8. Fold right back part’s hem into right side and stitch along vent allowance’s edge, then turn right side out.

 

9. Make the vent and fix vent’s top with diagonal stitch.

 

10. Stitch side seams.

 

11. Stitch sleeves along lower seam.

 

12. Stitch sleeves into armholes.

 

13. Overstitch sleeve stripes with the lining, turn them right side out and make 1.5 cm stitch.

 

14. Lay sleeve stripes on sleeve’s right side and tack along edges.

 

15. Stitch shoulder seam stitching sleeve stripes.

 

16. Stitch one stand-up to outer collar, stitch another stand-up to inner collar. Press allowances apart and make stitches along both side of the seam.

 

17. Stitch inner collar into garment neckline. Stitch outer collar to front bands.

 

18. Lay front bands joint with outer collar on the garment right sides together, adjust edges and overstitch front edgings and the collar. Turn right side out and stitch collars along lower edge.

 

19. Make 1.5 cm stitch along collar edge/front edgings.

 

20. Fold hem allowances into wrong side.

 

21. Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few cms above garment’s hem. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric’s, leave a segment of 20 cm length into an elbow seam. Lay the lining into fabric garment right sides together, coinciding middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge, side vent facing and along back vent facing’s edge (before you do it, slash horizontally lining allowances at back vent’s hem). Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then stitch segment’s edges together.

 

22. Make 1.5 cm stitch along the hem.

 

23. Make buttonholes into left front part and sew buttons on front edging and sleeve stripes.