6018 JACKET

 

YOU NEED: wool/semiwool; lining; bonded fabric of 20 cm length and 90 cm width; welting of 40 cm length and 90 cm width; fusing of 130 cm length and 140 cm width; warmer of 80 cm length and 8 cm width; 3 buttons of 20 mm diameter; 9 buttons of 15 mm diameter; shoulder pads.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

 

CUTTING:

 

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Side part – 2 pieces

4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Elbow part – 2 pieces

6. Flap – 2 pieces

7. Right small flap – 1 piece

8. Left small flap – 1 piece

9. Sacking – 2 pieces

10. Right small sacking – 1 piece

11. Outer collar – 1 folded piece

12. Stand-up collar – 1 folded piece

13. Front band – 2 pieces

14. Left small sacking – 1 piece

15. Facing (18x3 cm rectangle) – 4 pieces

16. Right small facing (13x3 cm rectangle) – 2 pieces

17. Left small facing (13x3 cm rectangle) – 2 pieces

 

Bonded fabric:

18. Inner collar – 1 folded piece

 

Lining:

19. Back part: use back part pattern+2 cm along middle ling for free-fit pleat

20. Front part (without front bands)

21. Both sleeves (without slit allowances)

22. Side part, flap and small flaps, sacking and small sackings – without changes

23. Hems: 2 cm shorter than fabric’s ones.

 

NB: if you have check fabric, take into account when pinning patterns on the fabric how checks will coincide along seams.

 

Welting: upper marked front part (beginning from lapels’ dashed line)

 

Fusing: outer collar, stand-up collar, front parts, front bands, flaps, facings, hems, small flaps, back vent’s left allowance.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

NB! Leave allowances open when stitching.

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer collar, stand-up collar, front parts, front bands, flaps, facings, hems, small flaps, back vent’s left allowance.

 

2. Cut pocket entrance into front part. Stitch darts, cut them along bending and press apart as open. Tack pocket entrance edges together.

 

3. Stitch fabric left small flap on lining one right sides together along outer edges, turn right side out and press, Do the same for right small flap and for flaps.

 

4. Left front part:

Cut slit “frame” small pocket with two facings into left front part: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on lower facings. Lay fabric sacking on upper facing inserting flap folded upward between upper facing and fabric sacking and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and make 1-cm facings. Fold the sacking double and topstitch its upper edge on upper facing’s allowance. Stitch sacking’s side edges together. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles.

 

5. Stitch front relieves.

 

6. Make slit “frame” small pocket with two facings inserting the flap, in the same way as left small pocket.

 

7. Make slit “frame” pockets with two facings into front parts in the same way as small pockets.

 

8. Quilt the welting on wrong side according to marking.

 

9. Stitch middle back seam to vent mark as well as vent allowances’ upper edges.

 

10. Press shoulder edges together at marked segment, then stitch shoulder seams together.

 

11. Stitch side seams.

 

12. Cut marked segment from outer/inner collar’s right side leaving 1 cm allowance.

 

13. Stitch stand-up collar to outer one coinciding control marks. Press allowances apart as open.

 

14. Press inner collar with hot iron to form it as outer collar joint with stand-up collar.

 

15. Stitch outer collar to front bands.

 

16. Lay outer collar with front bands on the garment right sides together and stitch along lapels and front edgings; then turn right side out and press.

 

17. Press sleeve’s upper part together and stitch upper sleeve to elbow part down to slit mark. Press allowances apart and turn the sleeve right side out. Fold slit allowances and hem allowance into right side, stitch the corner diagonally, cut extra fabric at 1 cm from the seam and press allowances apart. Press allowances into wrong side, sew with cross stitches and overlap the slit.

 

18. Ease sleeve cap slightly (narrow close stitches) between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.

 

19. Cut the warmer into equal pieces and sew on wrong side on sleeve caps.

 

20. Turn vent left allowance into right side and stitch along back hem line; turn right back part’s hem into right side and stitch along vent allowances’ edge. Turn right side out and press.

 

21. Make the vent and press it.

 

22. Press jacket hem/sleeve hems into wrong side and sew with blind stitches.

 

23. Sew shoulder pads.

 

24. Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few cms above garment’s hem. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric’s, leave a segment of 20 cm length into an elbow seam. Lay the lining into fabric garment right sides together, coinciding middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Press outer collar’s open edges into wrong side. Lay outer collar on inner one wrong sides together. Sew inner collar to outer one and to neckline with hand zig zags. Make a lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge, side vent facing and along back vent facing’s edge (before you do it, slash horizontally lining allowances at back vent’s hem). Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then stitch segment’s edges together.

 

25. Make buttonholes into left front edging and into collar’s left edge; sew buttons.

 

25. Make buttonholes into sleeve (do not cut through) and fix sleeve slit with buttons.