YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 1 piece
3. Front yoke – 2 pieces
4. Back yoke – 1 piece
5. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
6. Back hem facing – 1 piece
7. Front hem facing – 2 pieces
8. Placket – 2 pieces
9. Upper small sacking – 1 piece
10. Upper large sacking – 1 piece
11. Lower small sacking – 1 piece
12. Lower large sacking – 1 piece
13. Sleeve – 2 pieces
14. Sleeve facing – 2 pieces
Fusing: off-set welts.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of the collar, upper/lower off-set welts.
2. Neaten lower edges of front/back/sleeve facings.
3. Stitch front yokes to front parts. Neaten seams and press them. Topstitch allowances on yokes at 0.5 cm distance. Stitch back yokes to back part. Neaten the seam and press it. Topstitch the allowance on the yoke at 0.5 cm with contrast thread.
4. Mark off-set welt place on right front part. Press the welt along the center. Mark the line of stitching to the shirt, measure the width. Lay welts wrong side on small sacking’s right side (welt’s ready edge down), adjust edges and let lining’s edges (equal width) beyond the welt. Stitch the welt to front part coinciding marked lines. (The welt must be between front part and small sacking.) Fold the seam joining the welt and the sacking towards the welt. Lay large sacking on front part right sides together, line-on-line to the seam joining the welt. Tack, then stitch at 0.8-1 cm from the seam joining the welt. Check if the welt and the sacking are stitched correctly (stitches on wrong side must be parallel). Remove tacking. Cut pocket entrance. Cut pocket’s ends at 1-1.5 cm diagonally. Turn the welt and the sacking wrong side out through this hole. Fix pocket’s ends with double reverse stitch along corners’ bases. Stitch the sacking and neaten it. Tack the welt to front part and press it. Topstitch welt’s ends. Remove tacking. Topstitch lining contour (right side) with contrast thread.
5. do the same for left front part.
6. Stitch side/shoulder seams and neaten them. Press seams backwards. Stitch facings together, press seams apart.
7. Stitch the facing to garment’s hem. Topstitch facing’s neatened edge in joining seam and press ready facing.
8. Press one edge of the placket into wrong side. Make placket edge equal to front part’s edge and stitch it. Overstitch placket’s upper corner up to the mark of collar joining. Slash the neckline at mark level, then press it into wrong side. Topstitch placket’s pressed edge with contrast thread.
9. Lay outer collar on inner one right sides together, then overstitch. Turn the collar right side out, slash corners. Press the collar making an edging of 0.1-0.2 cm width of outer collar. Topstitch the collar along the contour. Stitch outer collar into the neckline. Fold inner collar’s edge under and topstitch it on the seam joining outer collar.
10. Stitch sleeve seam. Press it backwards. Stitch sleeve facing into a ring. Stitch the facing to sleeve hem. Topstitch facing’s lower neatened edge on joining seam and press ready facing.
11. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to marks given at patterns. Neaten joining seams and press them.
12. Make buttonholes into left front edge, sew buttons on right one.